The Raj : The colonial impact on India s jewellery making industry
A quiet recollection of what the traditional Indian jewellery making industry looked like before the colonial invasion and the significant transformations it had to undergo - both enriching and detrimental - under the rule of the British Raj.
August 15th, a day etched in gold in Indian history, symbolized not just freedom but a nation’s resolve to rise above the suffering endured under the two-century-old British Raj. As people broke the shackles of the oppressive and harsh rule of their colonizers, they looked forward to a brighter future and stepped into a new beginning. As bright as this promise of a better future was, it could not compensate for the loss India had already suffered, it could not bring back the lost days.
The British Rule was like a double-edged sword. Due to the British influence, many sectors in the country such as technology and education witnessed massive growth while many other societal facets were razed.
Jewellery Making was an avenue that experienced both sides of the coin - the good and the bad. In this article we will explore the colonial impact on India’s jewellery making industry.
Jewellery Before the Raj
Image courtesy : www.jdinstitute.edu.in
Image courtesy : www.jdinstitute.edu.in
Indian jewelry has a rich history that spans centuries, embodying timeless beauty and deep cultural significance. In ancient times, gold jewellery that dominated the market drew inspiration for its designs from nature. animals, trees, leaves, flowers, and at times, deities. This trend shifted in the country with the advent of the Mughal Empire. The Mughals brought with themselves their unique craftsmanship which was primarily dominated by diamonds, polkis and kundans. This was the era wherein this Persian-Indian technique birthed elaborate and heavy ornaments. These designs quickly gained prominence as the empire continued to expand and exert its influence.
The British Raj and the Onset of Industrialization
The arrival of the European colonists changed the trajectory of Indian history forever. As British Rule proliferated throughout the nation, the country’s rich and diverse cultural heritage took the biggest hit. Traditional Jewellery making was one such art that was heavily affected.
The British are credited with introducing India to technological advancements. One of the most significant drivers that changed the course of the jewellery making industry was the arrival of sophisticated machinery and newer techniques. Advanced technology due to industrialization meant that jewellery could be mass-produced as opposed to the traditional method of hand-crafted unique jewellery. This shift resulted in jewellery being produced at a faster pace, compromising on the uniqueness that once defined it. As a result, pieces were often at cheaper prices and lacked the traditional craftsmanship. A bright side to this change was that jewellery now was made more accessible to a broader audience.
The influx of this new style of jewelry made it difficult for traditional artisans to survive and compete. With more affordable options flooding the market, people naturally gravitated towards these lighter, cheaper alternatives instead of the heavy, costly traditional pieces.
Moreover, a new wave of designs inspired by Western cultures began to infiltrate the market. Jewelers started creating these styles to appeal to their colonial rulers and affluent Indians who could afford them. This shift further distanced traditional designs from mainstream popularity, altering the landscape of Indian jewelry.
The incorporation of Western techniques into Indian jewelry-making marked a turning point in the country’s traditional craftsmanship, blending age-old Indian methods with Western influences. This fusion gave rise to a distinctive style that continues to influence Indian jewelry today. These innovative techniques introduced greater precision and efficiency in the production process, revolutionizing jewelry design. The use of machinery enabled the creation of intricate filigree work and delicate patterns that were previously unattainable with traditional handcrafting methods. Among the most iconic features of British Indian jewellery is the prominent use of precious gemstones, especially diamonds, emeralds, sapphires, and rubies.
Image courtesy : www.behance.net / Damas-campaign
Another novel concept that the British introduced in the jewellery market was the concept of luxury jewellery, including their demand for precious gemstones. As a result, large-scale diamond-cutting and polishing companies were established and in the coming years of colonial rule witnessed a boom in the market.
Image courtesy : www.bcjainvikash.com
These changes, however, were laden with its own sad stories. Hitherto an intrinsic part of Indian culture, indigenous jewellery making techniques became suppressed and eventually, some were lost forever. The success of these newer jewelry styles was built on the rampant exploitation of artisans, especially women, who often worked in harsh conditions with little pay. Their relentless labor, undervalued and invisible, was the backbone of the industry, highlighting the darker realities of jewellery production during the British Raj.
Economic and Trade Environment
Before 1813, India’s traditional jewellery-making industry thrived as local artisans produced high-quality handcrafted items, while British products were inferior and more expensive. But then everything changed. To protect British interests, heavy import duties were levied on Indian goods, and Indian exports to Britain were restricted. This led to a decline in India’s handicrafts and jewellery sectors as local artisans struggled to compete. Although India continued to serve as a source of raw materials for British factories, an illusion of free trade was created. In reality, it was one-sided, as only British goods had unrestricted entry into India, further deteriorating the local jewellery-making industry.
Image courtesy : www.behance.net / Damas-campaign
Paving the way to a Brighter Future
We cannot reclaim the traditional craftsmanship we lost, but we can certainly preserve what remains by promoting indigenous and traditional jewellery forms like Kundan, Meenakari, and Temple jewellery. By walking hand-in-hand with mass-produced jewellery and handcrafted pieces, we can create a balanced market that values both artistry and affordability. The government and stakeholders need to invest in uplifting the sector by providing training, better resources, and fair trade policies that ensure artisans do not suffer financial losses. As a result, these efforts can reduce production costs and make traditional jewellery more accessible to the public. As individuals, it’s vital to appreciate and support traditional art forms instead of blindly following Western trends.
This conscious shift can help revive the cultural heritage associated with jewellery making while ensuring its sustainability and economic viability for future generations.