GENTLEMEN PREFER ART DECO
Blings, music and experimentation- the Roaring 20’s is defined as a cultural revolution. And from this era rose a magnum opus in the world of jewellery whose influence can still be seen and felt- Art Deco Jewellery.
Image Courtesy: pacificsymphony.blog
When we think of the 20’s, one thing that certainly comes to mind is The Great Gatsby. And while Gastby might be drawn to the green light, what attracts us is the design aesthetic of the erapopularly known as Art Deco.
Art Deco, that clean-line, geometric, minimalist aesthetic seen on skylines, straight-cut frocks and statement diamond necklaces, came from the ashes of World War I, when countries and their confidence had been crushed.
The movement became a major force in European and US design until the late 1930s, responding to people’s need for a new way to express themselves.
The Aesthetics
Simply put, Art Deco is seen as a style that conveyed the fun and elegance of the party scene, dreamy skyscrapers and the fantasy of Hollywood. Since the movement gained momentum due to WW I, it would be poignant to note that the aftermath of the war had a significant impact on jewellery too. As men went off to war, women started filling their roles. They wanted jewellery that reflected their newfound independence while balancing their femininity. Art Deco jewellery provided a perfect match for this, as it was bold, modern, and luxurious, without being apologetic about it.
Art Deco style reflected the era’s aesthetic, which called for clean lines and geometric shapes.
With this growing modernity, Art Deco jewellery designers left behind artistic styles like Art Nouveau and celebrated the progress of science and technology. They created a balance using bold domes, sculptural motifs, and flat geometry.
Experimenting With Styles
What made Art Deco jewellery stand out is its use of experimental materials and unusual diamond cuts. This was made possible due to the advent of the machine age which gave jewellers access to machines allowing them to create complex pieces.
Not just the designs, the materials used also reflected the ethos of that era. Designers often paired precious and semi-precious stones with materials like onyx, enamel, and mother-of-pearl.
When it came to necklaces, it too was about making a statement; bold and loud. Most of the necklaces were long stranded ones with chunky pendants or tassel while the earrings were shoulder length ones.
Beyond Borders
Egyptian and Indian cultures as well as craftsmanship, both had an impact on the motifs that were a part of the Art Deco Jewellery.
Egyptian symbols like the Scarab or the Eye Of Horus, lotus blossoms and other motifs were often depicted as stylised, geometric designs.
Not just this, many Art Deco jewellery pieces featured Indian carved gemstones in daring combinations.
While these cultural influences continued, Hollywood stars like Gloria Swanson or performers like the Charleston Dancing Flappers flaunted long strand pearl necklaces that were around metre and a half long.
Big names and Art Deco
Art deco was not limited to the masses and their desire for exuberance. Brands like Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Raymond Templier,Boivin etc had Art Deco embedded into some of their most iconic designs.
Jazz and Art Deco
Jazz and Art Deco converged in a shared aesthetic of innovation, modernity, and breaking away from tradition. For African Americans, Jazz was a platform to express their identity and creativity, marking the Harlem Renaissance, a cultural movement that celebrated Black artistry and intellect. Meanwhile, Art Deco signaled a rejection of the old world’s traditional hierarchies and an embrace of a more democratic, accessible form of luxury. The reflection of this symbiotic relationship could be seen in the Art Deco jewellery often worn by women performers accompanying the Jazz bands of the era.
Image Courtesy: hollywoodprogressive.com
Great Gatsby
Art Deco cannot be complete without the mention of The Great Gatsby. While the characters in the book were introduced to the opulence of that era, for the movie adaptation, the makers did not stray far from the true essence of Art Deco. In the movie posters, Daisy Buchanan,wears a headpiece emblematic of the Art Deco era.
A Timeless Piece of Artistic Expression
Image Courtesy: architechuraldigest.in
Art Deco jewellery might have been born in the 1920’s but it doesn’t belong to that era only. The influence of this bold, unconventional style can still be seen in contemporary designs as well where modern designers are borrowing from the past to design masterpieces for today.
“I love the scale, the utter modernity, the move from curves to angular lines… the detailing in design, the handsomeness and femininity of Art Deco. I am in awe of the sheer broad spectrum of the medium. It’s a gift that keeps on giving,” says Indian jewellery designer Hanut Singh of his Art Deco-inspired jewellery.
The Roaring 20’s might be gone, but it’s influence especially in the aesthetic of jewellery can still be seen. Art Deco, ultimately is an art form that keeps being reborn, with new additions and alterations while maintaining it’s true essence- being different and making you look different.