Legacy Rediscovered: The lesser known Traditional Jewellery across India
A journey through five hidden gems from India’s extensive jewellery heritage, exploring the cultural significance it carries, the history behind its creation, and their appeal in the contemporary world.
Tucked away in the corner of the closet inside a velvet pouch or worn proudly, sparkling under the sun - jewellery goes beyond just being an accessory, it tells a story. It embodies the hard work of the skilled craftsmen and the sheer joy of the individual who adorns it. Whether it’s inherited from a loved one or a sparkling new addition to a collection, every piece of jewelry speaks of a rich tapestry of culture, heritage, and personal meaning.
Whether the jewellery you have comes from the South of India or from the North, it serves a twin purpose - it bears a traditional meaning and is aesthetically pleasing. The rich assortment of jewelry across the nation provides peotzple with the luxury of choosing pieces that match their style. Most people’s tastes are heavily influenced by what’s trending or what is popular on mainstream media such as stunning kundan necklaces or festive chandbali jhumkas. But hidden amidst these popular choices are lesser-known pieces of jewellery from different states and communities of India, each with its unique identity and flawless.
1. Kashmiri Dehjoor - A piece of stunning ear ornament without which the ensemble of the blushing Kashmiri Pandit bride remains incomplete.
Symbolic of marital bliss, prosperity, and a union between two Kashmiri pandit families, this piece of dangling jewellery is traditionally worn fromthe day before the women are to be tied in holy matrimony. It bears resemblance to Sindoor and Mangalsutra, hailed as sacred tokens of marriage across other parts of India, in terms of significance and purpose. However, two major differences set dehjoor apart from its symbolic counterparts. Dejhoor can be adorned by women even after the passing of her husband and is originally given by her family. Initially, the dehjoor comprises a long thread in the bride’s colour i.e. red, and may eventually be swapped for a gold chain, known as ath, gifted by her in-laws. The ornament that dangles at the end is always hexagonal in shape and it signifies “a yantra denoting Shiva and Shakti.” This delicately designed jewellery has stood the test of time and continues to be the embodiment of the region’s rich culture and traditions. In recent times, Dehjoor has emerged as a popular choice among young brides as a medium to feel connected to their roots.
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2. Assamese Jewellery - From the majestic land of tea gardens, vibrant silk, and mighty rivers, comes a range of artisanally crafted colourful jewellery, boasting unique handicrafts and detailed motifs.
This Assamese art form drew inspiration from nature and traditional surroundings to create breathtaking designs, usually made using silver and then topped with liquid gold (Xun Paanisoruwa/ Gold Polished) or by plating gold foils on silver (Kesa Xun/ Gold Plated). Traditional neckpieces, earrings, bangles, and rings, come studded with gemstones, primarily in red, green, and blue.
The names of these jewelry pieces are inspired by the designs they mirror. Here are some well-known examples:
Junbiri - Half Moon or crescent-shaped
Lokaparo - Two pigeons seated back-to-back
Dhol Biri - Shaped in the form of a drum
Thuriya - A full/half shaped flower
Jaapi - Inspired by the traditional symbol of Assamese folk culture
Jethi Poti - Lizard’s tail and has a row of small medallions in the shape of a V and a central pendant.
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Another exotic and handmade hidden treasure of Assam is its Gam Kharu (bangle). It is a broad, thick band, with minimal engravings and ornamentation, worn by both men and women. This is just the tip of the iceberg. Assam enjoys an array of exquisite and versatile designs that suit both grand celebrations and casual, day-to-day styles.
3.Manipuri Tribal Jewellery - Did you know that the name ‘Manipur’ translates to the ‘Land of Gems’? Another interesting titbit is that earlier it was known as ‘Shubarna Bhu’ meaning the ‘Land of Gold’. With gold and gems quite literally embedded into the state’s name, how could we miss pointing out the hidden treasures of this Northeastern state?
History reveals that Manipur was a prime location for gold exports and that has undoubtedly laid the seeds for the state’s long-standing skills in curating unique gold jewellery. The most prominent piece of Manipuri jewelry is the Likchow or Kantha, a gold necklace adorned with strands of beads. Other popular ornaments include the Likhsoi, Khownappi, and the thick gold necklace known as Heibi Mapal.
The lesser-known tribal communities of the state enjoy a diverse range of handcrafted jewellery. Tribes seldom use metal such as silver or gold to bring their jewellery into existence, instead resorting to the distinguished use of beads, ivory, seeds, or beetles. Some communities also utilize the abundantly available bamboo and cane to fashion necklaces, head ornaments, and earrings. The largest ethnic group of Manipur, the Meiti Community, is known for its taste in jewellery made of the yellow metal.
But did you know that this craft is so one-of-a-kind that to experience the beauty of Manipuri jewellery, you would have to visit a Manipuri goldsmith or craftsman?
4. Pahadi Jewellery - Uttarakhand, the land renowned for its majestic Himalayan landscape, also has a treasure trove of traditional jewellery, a reflection of the region’s rich culture and artistic finesse of the craftsmen.
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Along with being a quintessential component of a Pahadi woman’s outfit, these are a few trinkets that set them apart from non-Pahadi women. A beauty to behold, each piece is part of the community’s ethnic identity being passed down from generations.
Let’s look at some of the elegant displays of their cultural heritage -
Galoband :- Flaunted by the married women of Kumaon, Garhwal, Bhotiya, and Jaunsar, this is a traditional choker designed on a red fabric and adorned with square gold blocks.
Tehri Nath :- A centre of attention for a Garhwali bride, this is a big moon-shaped nose ring, often gifted by the women’s maternal uncle. With motifs inspired by nature, the art of making this statement piece includes intricate stone and kundan work as well.
Pahunchi :- Auspicious for married women and often passed down as family heirlooms, pahunchi is a gold bangle uniquely crafted on red fabric studded with gold/silver beads.
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5. Rajasthani Lac - A bug. A tree. Resin. - Do these three words make any sense to you?
But to the Lakehra artisans sitting in Rajasthan, this is their livelihood. Lac is a resinous substance secreted by insects known as Kerria lacca that feed on certain trees like Kusum, Dhak, etc.
Lac bangles have a long-standing history in India, with roots in ShivaParvati mythology and the Mahabharata. Renowned for their vivid hues and creative patterns, this piece of jewellery is synonymous with good premonition, as per traditions. In recent times, lac bangles have started to gain steady prominence outside its original cultural periphery as well. Today, you would find craftsmen deploying unique precision to create these bangles using tools like hatti and khata when you enter the lanes of Maniharon ka Rasta, Jaipur. Lac has also paved its way into contemporary jewellery designs with many brands curating lac earrings collections.
The timeless allure of jewellery will remain immortal. While it may evolve with the changing tides of fashion, its essence will endure. These hidden treasures that we have discussed above deserve both admiration and preservation, ensuring their beauty is cherished for generations to come.