Sustainability in the Gems Jewellery Industry:
The Role of the Responsible Jewellery Council
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Kinjal Shah
Head Of Asian Development
When it comes to the word sustainability, the conversations, most often than not have been about the fashion industry. But the jewellery that peoplea wear along with it also needs to be a part of the discussion table, especially when the industry is responsible for environmental pollution, deforestation and human rights violations as well.
If we have to talk about numbers, then as per a report by SCSglobal Services, one mined carat of gold releases 57 kg of carbon. 250 tons of earth are shifted for one single diamond carat. Amazon Aid Foundation said in its 2016 documentary that one gold wedding ring requires the mining of 20 tons of earth.
Going by such reports, it was necessary to take measures where the sector would be held responsible for the harm that it was causing and to move forward in a path that would be viable for both the environment as well as the industry.
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From Accountability to Solutions
Understanding the need to have a regulatory body that the jewellery and watch sector would be answerable to, the Responsible Jewellery Council was founded in 2005 by 14 member organisations (ABN AMRO, BHP Billiton Diamonds, Cartier, World Jewellery Confederation (CIBJO), Diamond Trading Company (part of De Beers Group), Diarough, Jewelers of America, National Association of Goldsmiths (UK), Newmont Mining, Rio Tinto, Rosy Blue, Signet Group, Tiffany & Co., and Zale Corporation). With a mission to be the recognised standard and certification organization for supply chain integrity, the Responsible Jewellery Council aims to promote responsible practices throughout the jewellery supply chain, from mine to retail.
Jewellery has always played a special role in people’s lives, carrying personal and emotional significance. RJC aims to help the industry to evolve itself into a more responsible sector, thereby strengthening consumer confidence with its Code of Practices (COP) and Chain of Custody (COC) standards.
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Code of Practices (COP)
At the heart of the RJC’s work is its Code of Practices (COP) standard that covers a wide range of issues related to sustainability and responsible business conduct. The COP addresses critical topics such as human rights, labour practices, environmental stewardship, product disclosure, and responsible sourcing.
The COP is made up of 42 provisions that are specifically designed for companies to fulfil six broad objectives:
To improve legal and regulatory compliance, strengthen public reporting and secure a commitment to responsible business practices.
To increase the use of due diligence in supply chains to uphold human rights, support community development, promote anti-corruption efforts and manage sourcing risks.
To better comply with international labour conventions and ensure responsible working conditions.
To protect the health and safety of both people and environments, and to use natural resources efficiently.
To adequately control, and disclose information about, products and so avoid misleading or deceptive marketing practices.
To secure responsible exploration and mining practices that protect potentially affected communities and environments from adverse impacts.
The COP is aligned with international frameworks, including the United Nations Guiding Principles on Business and Human Rights, the International Labour Organization (ILO) Conventions, and the OECD Due Diligence Guidance for Responsible Supply Chains of Minerals from Conflict-Affected and High-Risk Areas. This alignment ensures that the RJC’s standards are globally recognised and credible, helping to build trust among consumers, governments, and civil society organisations.
Chain of Custody (COC) Standard
In addition to its COP, the RJC has developed a Chain of Custody (COC) standard, which focuses specifically on traceability and responsible sourcing of materials. The COC Standard ensures that certified materials, such as gold, diamonds, and platinum group metals, are sourced from responsible sources and can be traced throughout the supply chain. This helps to prevent the entry of conflict minerals and other unethical materials into the jewellery market.
The COC has three main objectives:
It defines an approach for companies to handle and trade gold, silver and platinum group metals in a way that is fully traceable and responsibly sourced.
The COC certification gives customers and suppliers the assurance they need about how the products and materials have been sourced, traced, and processed through the supply chain, from mine to retail.
The certification provides a point of differentiation for companies and their stakeholders in the precious metal supply chains, this can add value to jewellery products and help protect and enhance jewellery brands.
The COC Standard is an important tool for promoting transparency and accountability in the supply chain. It enables companies to demonstrate to consumers that their products are not only beautiful but also ethically sourced.
Collaborations and Partnerships
The RJC recognises that sustainability is a collective effort that requires collaboration across the industry and beyond. To this end, the RJC works closely with other organisations, governments, and civil society groups to promote responsible practices.
Some of the key partnerships include:
The Kimberley Process: An international initiative aimed at preventing conflict diamonds from entering the market. The RJC supports the Kimberley Process and encourages its members to comply with its requirements.
The Alliance for Responsible Mining (ARM): A global initiative that supports responsible artisanal and small-scale mining. The RJC works with ARM to promote fair trade and responsible sourcing of materials from ASM operations.
The United Nations Global Compact: The RJC is a participant in the UN Global Compact, which encourages businesses to adopt sustainable and socially responsible policies. This partnership reflects RJC’s commitment to aligning it’s work with global sustainability goals, including the UN’s Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs).
The World Diamond Council: As a member of the World Diamond Council, the RJC supports efforts to combat the trade in conflict diamonds and promote responsible sourcing in the diamond industry.
The Certification Process
RJC certification is available to companies across the jewellery supply chain, including mining companies, refiners, manufacturers, and retailers. The certification process involves an independent audit to assess whether a company’s practices meet the RJC’s standards. Once certified, companies must undergo regular audits to ensure continued compliance.
The certification process encourages transparency and accountability, helping companies identify areas for improvement and take action to address them. It also provides a clear signal to consumers that a company is committed to responsible practices.
Can Sustainable Jewellery Sustain?
The jewellery industry is at a crossroads. As the world grapples with the pressing challenges of climate change, biodiversity loss, wars and social inequality, the demand for sustainable and responsible practices is only set to grow.
The future of sustainable jewellery will depend on the continued commitment of companies to adopt responsible practices, the development of new technologies to enhance transparency and traceability, and the collaboration of stakeholders across the supply chain. By embracing sustainability, the jewellery industry can not only protect the planet and its people but also ensure its own long-term success.
As the industry continues to evolve, the RJC’s work will remain essential in ensuring that beauty and luxury go hand in hand with responsibility and integrity.